Hiking Torres del Paine – 6 days, 5 nights, 90 km (56 miles)

Hiking Torres del Paine was everything we hoped it would be and more.  The minute you fly into Punta Arenas you have a feeling you are near the bottom of the world, and with the winter sun not getting much higher than 17 degrees in the sky – rising at 9am and descending around 5pm – you have a sense… Read more →

Remote Life

Our life of travel is taking a pause. No more cities, buses or metros for a while while we live a remote life, bare and exposed. We are currently guests in dog heaven. For 8 weeks we are dog-sitting 4 dogs in a beautiful remote cabin on the coast of Chile (and cabin-sitting!), a few hundred kilometers north of Santiago.… Read more →

The Sea Turtles of Uruguay

I cried when I saw the dead turtle. It was lying on the beach with a fishing line stuck in its mouth and coming out of its back-end. Its cause of death was obvious and so clearly human-caused that I couldn’t help but cry disgusted, regretful tears. This was my first lesson. Only day one of two weeks of incredible experiences and heart-breaking… Read more →

Discovering Buenos Aires and The Dirty War

I don’t recall ever learning about Argentina’s Dirty War. Certainly the last thing I expected to visit in Buenos Aires was a concentration camp. But we did. And it’s this heavy history I choose to write about now.  As we crossed into Argentina, I read its history as briefly summarized in our Lonely Planet book, and was intrigued. All I… Read more →

The Road Less Traveled – avoiding the crowds at Torres del Paine

We were close to achieving our goal of Torres del Paine by the end of February. What is it they say about best laid plans? The plan was to hang out in Bariloche for two weeks and then make our way south to Patagonia. We are technically in Patagonia now, but the “real” Patagonia is further south. Our plan was to… Read more →

Beautiful Bariloche

We are currently in beautiful Bariloche, Argentina. The gateway to Patagonia. It is a resort town on a large glacial lake surrounded by spas, hotels and beautiful homes. Hostels here are more expensive than anywhere we’ve been so we are volunteering in exchange for a free room. Our buddy Shakes drove on south to achieve his goal of Fitz Roy and… Read more →

The Mystery of Machu Picchu

The pinnacle of the Salkantay Trek is Machu Picchu. Typically, you would reach Machu Picchu on day 4 or day 5. But for some reason we hiked two 10+ hour days on day 1 and day 2…. And let me just defend myself a bit here and explain why I took the easy way out in a Collectivo on day… Read more →

Machu Picchu via The Salkantay Trek – an alternative to the Inca Trail

The Salkantay Trek skinny:  We turned a 5 day/4 night trek into a 3 day/2 night trek. We did this without a guide. You don’t need a guide for this trek. But, if you choose to go with a guide, prices are about $250-300.  Day 1:  15 miles Start:  Sayllapata (3450 meters / 11,319 feet) Pass:  Highest point on the… Read more →

The Nasca Lines of Peru: Spend the money and go up in a plane

For as archaeologically significant and mysterious as the Nasca Lines of Peru are, amazingly, they are still relatively unknown. (Nasca is also spelled Nazca. My research has shown that Nasca is the spelling favored by scholars and therefore that is the spelling I will use here.) First, what are they? Simply, they are ancient geoglyphs in the Nasca Desert of… Read more →

The Santa Cruz Trek: One of the best treks in the world

The Santa Cruz Trek was voted as one of the best treks in the world by National Geographic. Start:  Cashapampa – elevation: 9,524 ft (2900 meters) Finish:  Vaqueria – elevation:  11,811 ft (3600 meters)   Highest point:  15,584 ft (4750 meters) Total distance:  28 miles (45km) Days/Nights:  4 days/3 nights (Could be done in 3 days/2 nights buy why not… Read more →

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